One of Vientiane’s “must see” Buddhist temples—Haw Pha Kaew, once the king’s personal Buddhist temple—is not actually a temple per se with monks on the premises and services being performed, but today functions as a museum of art and antiquities.
Although this temple, which was built in the sixteenth century, has many priceless Buddhist artifacts on display, what makes this temple interesting and perhaps somewhat infamous is its controversial past which revolves around the Emerald Buddha, one of the most sacred items in all of Southeast Asia and the symbol of Thailand.
According to legend, the Emerald Buddha was found when lightning struck a Chedi at Wat Phra Kaew Don Tao in Chiang Rai province, Thailand, in 1434 AD. A statue covered in stucco was found inside. The stucco was removed and the Emerald Buddha was discovered. It was kept in Lampang, Thailand until 1468 when it was moved to Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai.
The King of Lanna had no sons but his daughter married the King of Lan Xang and a son was born who would become the future King Setthathirat (King Chaichettha in Thai). Both Kings died almost at the same time and he was given the chance to become King of Lanna, but instead returned to Lan Xang to become King, taking the Emerald Buddha with him. Around the same time, Burma invaded Siam. Chiang Mai which was the capital of Lanna, was invaded and conquered in 1558. Because of the danger posed by the Burmese, King Setthathirat moved the capital to its current location, Vientiane in 1560 and brought the Emerald Buddha with him.
Five years later, in 1565, Haw Pha Kaew was constructed in Vientiane to house the Emerald Buddha (Pha Kaew means ‘Jewel Buddha Image’ in Lao; actually, the image is made of a type of jade). The Emerald Buddha would end up staying there for over two hundred years until it was taken back to Siam by Phraya Chakri, the future King Rama I of Thailand, in 1778 and placed in Bangkok’s Wat Phra Kaeo. Sadly, Haw Pha Kaew stood until 1827 when Vientiane was destroyed by Siamese troops in revenge for then King Anouvong attacking Siam.
by Jeffrey Miller
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